posted
04-05-2002 01:47 PM 
Here is the text I wrote April 2001.
I added {some text} for this post. This was initially written for
old hubs, but new hubs should also be repacked before use.
++++++++++++++++++
Just in case someone DOES want to DIY.
It's simple:
-unbolt the two caliper bracket bolts and move the caliper assembly
out of the way
-Remove hub from axle {29 mm SIX point socket}
-Insert (2) two small washers in the gap between the front and back
inner races
-Insert a socket (with short extension) which JUST fits into the
race's bore (21 mm in my case) until it contacts the washers
-Tap on the extension a couple times to drive the race out (it's
easier to tap out the front race first since you can rest the hub on
the studs on the floor)
-Change to a slightly bigger socket and drive out the back inner
race (This can be tougher since the hub is not much bigger than the
race and you really don't want to damage the seal, so be careful
here.)
-MAKE A MENTAL NOTE OF HOW THE BBs ARE SUPPORTED BY THE PLASTIC
HOLDERS
-Pop the BBs out of the plastic holders with a flathead (careful not
to damage the outer race surfaces machined into the hub) and put
them in a plastic cup with some WD40
(keep the inner and outer
bearing sets separate)
-Carefully remove the inserts
{OUT THE FRONT OF THE HUB}
Ball Bearing Insert -
positioned exactly as you would be looking at it in the hub
-Use a SMALL flathead to CAREFULLY pop
out the rear seal. {Just keep moving the
flathead around to distribute the load}
(I used a small flathead
screwdriver inserted from the OUTER end of the hub and a hammer to
tap it out. In the process, I deformed the metal ring and
almost destroyed the seal - GMK)
I use the weight of the hub and the
garage floor to tap the seal out which is much more friendly to the
seal than prying it out.
{-CLEAN the
knuckle's machined lip where the hub's seal will contact it.}
-Keep each
bearing set separated if the hub has some miles on it. Just
use two WD40 filled cups.
Inner
and Outer wheel bearing sets with races, separated
-Clean, clean, clean. A toothbrush and
some compressed air works great on the plastic inserts and the gap
in the back of the seal.
(picture of the round spring
in the seal. I was able to insert it back in. It looks just like
DIFF Oil Seal - GMK)
{Be careful not to
damage or blow out the round spring in the seal}
-When everything is clean, inspect
for corrosion, dings, etc.
-If everything looks good repack* and reassemble (put
the rear seal in last see my
post from 2/17/02 below)
Inner
wheel bearing & race (not installed)
Inner
wheel bearing with race installed. Due to the vast amounts of
Redline CV2 grease on the hub, I used a large socket in a clean
plastic bag as a drift to drive the race back into the hub - GMK
-The races will tap back in with
slight resistance.
(more
than slight resistance in my case - GMK)
-Remount, torque {125 - 160 ft*lbs} and
try to wobble. Tighten until the play goes away.
(I used an air impact tool and
tightened it until it would not tighten any more. Dave Wheeler
of
www.Advanced-Autosports.com suggested that some of the hub
failures occur due to low torque in reinstallation of the front hubs - GMK)
-Grease {I now use RTV instead of grease}
the hub's front cap and tap it on.
{-Remove the cap and Re-torque after the
initial six hours}
Don't be worried if it seems like the hub spun more freely before
you did all that work.
{If you don't
want to go to the trouble, Karl will be glad to repack your hubs for
you. 512 423 9740}
(I would take Karl up on it -
GMK)
*Please use
Redline CV-2. I've tried three other brands and they all separate.
[ 02-17-2003, 02:30 PM: Message edited by: Karl ] |
posted
12-11-2002 06:20 PM 
